#relacoespublicas #rp #rpmoda #pr #publicrelations » 2011 » Outubro » 28 » Legacy Máquina No.1
19:58 Legacy Máquina No.1 | |
Selvagem, extremo, ultrajante, sem restrições: tudo pode ser usado para descrever futurismo MB & F Máquinas Horological, mas tradicional, clássica ... round? Com o seu equilíbrio monumental central; movimento superlativamente acabado; completamente independente fusos horários dual; indicador de reserva de potência e vertical único caso anular elegante, Legacy Máquina No.1 (LM1) é um tributo a grandes inovadores da relojoaria tradicional, e acima de tudo, um autêntica tridimensional MB & F Máquina. Máquina legado No.1 foi concebido quando Maximilian Büsser começou fantasiar: "O que teria acontecido se eu tivesse nascido em 1867 em vez de 1967 No início de 1900 os primeiros relógios de pulso apareceram e eu gostaria de criar três-dimensional máquinas para o pulso? , mas não há Grendizers, Star Wars ou aviões de combate para a minha inspiração. Mas eu tenho relógios de bolso, a Torre Eiffel e Jules Verne, de modo que pode o meu olhar como máquina de 1911? Tem que ser rodada e tem que ser de três -dimensional: Legacy Máquina No.1 foi a minha resposta ". Na fidelidade a alta qualidade relógios de bolso do século 19, LM1 apresentam oscilantes (2,5 Hz), o balanço de grande diâmetro com a tradicional Breguet overcoil suspenso majestosas arcadas geminadas; seu mecanismo de regulação enigmática à vista, mas sem ligação aparente com o movimento. Ambas as horas e os minutos em cada um dos dois mostradores sub pode ser definido de forma totalmente independente um do outro - complicações dual zone tempo normalmente não permitem o ajuste independente do minutos - sua marca cúpula reforçando ainda mais referências visuais para a idade de ouro da relojoaria ( 1780-1850). Parecendo um sextante em miniatura, um mundo-primeira indicador de reserva de verticais de energia mantém o controle de energia disponível, proporcionando um contraponto visual tridimensional aos arcos graciosos apoiando a sua balança. Olhando para baixo através do Legacy Máquina No.1 's claro cúpula bolha de cristal de safira à fantasia micro-mecânica abaixo, é fácil imaginar o Capitão Nemo de Júlio Verne, olhando para a cidade mítica submarina de Atlântida. Máquina legado No.1 's transcendental movimento in-house é um testemunho para o enorme talento de seus criadores. Jean-François Mojon e sua equipe na Chronode (Prêmio Melhor Relojoeiro em 2010 no Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève) reuniu-se o grande desafio de desenvolver o calibre para LM1 a partir de uma folha em branco, enquanto aclamado independente relojoeiro Kari Voutilainen assumiu a responsabilidade pela estética do projeto e para garantir rigorosamente o maior respeito pela tradição e acabamento. Ondas Imaculada Genebra, chatons altamente polido ouro e pontes com chanfros impecavelmente executado seguintes deliberada ângulos internos (o que não pode ser terminado por máquina) mostrar o movimento é absolutamente inigualável fino acabamento. O movimento de Legacy Máquina No.1 orgulhosamente traz os nomes de ambos os criadores a sua, e é o primeiro calibre diferente Voutilainen próprio para suportar o seu nome. Com Legado Máquina No.1, MB & F tem majestosamente reinterpretados excelência tradicional do século 19 para criar uma relojoaria contemporânea, tridimensional objet d'art. Legacy Machine No 1 Wild, extreme, outrageous, unrestrained: all might be used to describe MB&F's futuristic Horological Machines, but traditional, classical… round? With its monumental central balance; superlatively finished movement; completely independent dual time zones; unique vertical power reserve indicator and elegant annular case, Legacy Machine No.1 (LM1) is a tribute to the great innovators of traditional watchmaking; and above all, an authentic three-dimensional MB&F Machine. Legacy Machine No.1 was conceived when Maximilian Büsser started fantasising: "What would have happened if I had been born in 1867 instead of 1967? In the early 1900s the first wristwatches appear and I would want to create three-dimensional machines for the wrist, but there are no Grendizers, Star Wars or fighter jets for my inspiration. But I do have pocket watches, the Eiffel Tower and Jules Verne, so what might my 1911 machine look like? It has to be round and it has to be three-dimensional: Legacy Machine No.1 was my answer." In fidelity to high-quality 19th century pocket watches, LM1 features a sedately oscillating (2.5 Hz), large diameter balance with traditional Breguet overcoil suspended from majestic twin arches; its enigmatic regulating mechanism in full view, but without apparent connection to the movement. Both the hours AND the minutes on each of the two sub dials can be set completely independently of each other – dual time zone complications usually do not allow independent adjustment of the minutes – their domed dials further reinforcing visual references to the golden age of watchmaking (1780-1850). Looking like a miniature sextant, a world-first vertical power reserve indicator keeps track of available power while providing a visual three-dimensional counterpoint to the graceful arches supporting the balance. Gazing down through Legacy Machine No.1's crystal clear bubble sapphire dome to the micro-mechanical fantasy below, it's easy to imagine Jules Verne’s Captain Nemo looking upon the mythical underwater city of Atlantis. Legacy Machine No.1's transcendental in-house movement bears testimony to the enormous talent of its creators. Jean-François Mojon and his team at Chronode (Best Watchmaker Prize at the 2010 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève) met the considerable challenge of developing the calibre for LM1 from a blank sheet, while acclaimed independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen took responsibility for the aesthetic design and for strictly ensuring the utmost respect for tradition and finish. Immaculate Geneva waves, highly-polished gold chatons and bridges with impeccably executed bevels following deliberate internal angles (which cannot be finished by machine) showcase the movement's absolutely peerless fine-finishing. The movement of Legacy Machine No.1 proudly bears the names of both its creators, and is the first calibre other than Voutilainen's own to bear his name. With Legacy Machine No.1, MB&F has majestically reinterpreted traditional 19th century watchmaking excellence to create a contemporary, three-dimensional objet d'art. Legacy Machine No 1 in detail Inspiration and Realization: Maximilian Büsser has had a long affinity with pocket watches of the 18th and 19th centuries. Virtually all horological complications we see today were not only imagined in that period, they were developed using just paper and pen (no sophisticated computer programs), components were produced to extremely high precision using – by today’s standards – fairly primitive machines (no electricity) and finely finished, assembled and regulated to an incredibly high quality that we still strive to match today. Their generous size compared with modern wristwatches allowed for uncluttered movement architectures with beautifully shaped bridges and plates. While MB&F’s futuristic Horological Machines have a firm foundation in the very best of traditional horology, Büsser wanted to pay homage to that rich tradition by imagining the type of timepiece he might create if he had been born 100 years earlier, in 1867 instead of 1967. With its large, sedately oscillating balance, domed dials, historical bridge design and classical fine-finishing, Legacy Machine No.1 is the very contemporary, yet traditionally elegant, fruition of that dream. Engine: LM1’s ingenious three-dimensional movement was specifically developed for MB&F from Maximilian Büsser’s sketches by Jean-François Mojon and his team at Chronode in Le Locle, Switzerland. The balance wheel and spring are at the very heart of any mechanical watch movement and are responsible for regulating timekeeping accuracy. Büsser has long been fascinated by the large slowly oscillating – 18,000 bph compared with the 28,800 bph common today – balance wheels of antique pocket watches, so it was no surprise this was his starting point from which to let his fertile imagination roam free. What was surprising though is just how radically he re-interpreted tradition by relocating the balance wheel from its more usual position hidden at the back of the movement to not just the top of the movement but majestically floating above the movement… even floating above the dials! While the location of Legacy Machine No.1’s regulating organ may be considered avant-garde, ‘tradition’ is upheld by the large 14mm diameter balance wheel with regulating screws specifically developed for MB&F, balance spring with Breguet overcoil and mobile stud holder. Another very special feature of the LM1 movement is the ability to set the two time zones completely independently. The vast majority of dual time zone movements only allow the hours to be independently adjusted, a rare few offer setting to the half hour. Legacy Machine No.1 allows both hours and minutes of each dial to be set to whatever time the user wishes. The world’s first vertical power reserve indicator on LM1 is driven by an ultra-flat differential with ceramic bearings allowing for a slimmer complication and a more robust and longer-wearing mechanism. Dial and Indications: The rate keeping of the twin dials is controlled by the same regulator (balance and escapement) so that once set, the two times stay perfectly synchronised with each other. Both the hours AND minutes on both dials can be set to any time desired via their respective crowns. Complementing the three-dimensionality of the balance floating in space, the dual white dials with their bright blue gold hands float above the top of the movement. The dials are gently domed with a translucent, high-gloss lustre created using a laque tendue process in which multiple layers of lacquer are applied and heated, causing them to stretch over the surface of the dials. To ensure aesthetic purity of the dials and their traditional Roman numerals, a sophisticated fixation underneath negates the necessity of visually obtrusive used screws. A fine golden perimeter circumscribing each dial elegantly reinforces their timeless classicism. Fine Finishing and Historical Legitimacy: Acclaimed master watchmaker Kari Voutilainen assumed responsibility for ensuring the historical accuracy of the style and finishing of the Legacy Machine No.1 movement. No easy task with such an unconventional suspended-balance design from which to begin. A finely engraved sun-ray pattern on top of the movement plate (dial side) subtly catches the eye at certain angles without distracting attention from the twin white dials, floating balance or vertical power. But it is in the style and finish of the bridges and plates visible through the display on the back of the movement where Kari Voutilainen has excelled in providing exquisite historical fidelity in both the shape of elegantly curved bridges and the traditionally wide space between the bridges and between the perimeter of the bridges and the case. On the back of the movement, over-sized ruby jewels set in highly-polished countersunk gold chatons provide striking visual counterpoints to the Geneva waves traversing the sensually curved bridges. While providing historical links with the large jewels seen in high-grade antique pocket watch movements, the ruby bearings have a practical application in reducing wear/increasing longevity by accommodating large diameter pinions and holding more lubricating oil. Legacy Machine No 1 – Technical Specifications Engine: Three-dimensional horological movement developed 100% for MB&F by Chronode and created by Jean-François Mojon and Kari Voutilainen Manual winding with single mainspring barrel Power reserve: 45 hours Balance wheel: Bespoke 14mm balance wheel with four traditional regulating screws floating above the movement and dials Balance spring: traditional Breguet curve terminating in mobile stud holder Balance frequency: 18,000bph/2.5Hz Number of components: 279 Number of jewels: 23 Chatons: gold chatons with polished countersinks Fine finishing: superlative hand finishing throughout respecting 19th century style; internal bevel angles highlighting hand craft; polished bevels; Geneva waves; hand-made engravings Functions: Hours and minutes; completely independent dual time zones displayed on two dials; unique vertical power reserve Left crown at 8 o'clock for setting time of left dial; right crown at 4 o'clock for setting time of right dial and winding Case: Available in 18k red gold or 18k white gold Dimensions: 44mm wide x 16mm high Number of components: 65 Sapphire crystals: High domed sapphire crystal on top with anti-reflective coating on both sides; sapphire crystal on back with anti-reflective coating on single side Strap & Buckle: Black or brown hand-stitched alligator strap with gold tang buckle to match case 'Friends' responsible for Legacy Machine No 1 Concept: Maximilian Büsser / MB&F Product design: Eric Giroud / Eric Giroud Design Studio Technical and production management: Serge Kriknoff / MB&F Movement development: Jean-François Mojon / Chronode Movement design and finish specifications: Kari Voutilainen Wheels: Jean-Marc Naval / Rouages SA Balance wheel bridge: Benjamin Signoud / AMECAP Balance wheel: Yann Le Martret / Société Manufacture d’ébauche de Balancier Plates and bridges: Arnaud Faivre / Tec ébauches Hand-engraving of movement: Eddy Jaquet Hand-finishing of movement components: Jacques-Adrien Rochat / C-L Rochat Movement assemblage: Didier Dumas, Georges Veisy, Alexandre Bonnet of MB&F Case: Bertrand Jeunet and Dominique Mainier of G&F Chatelain Buckle: Erbas S.A. Dials: François Bernhard and Denis Parel of Natéber Hands: Pierre Chillier, Isabelle Chillier and Félix Celetta of Fiedler Strap: Olivier Purnot / Camille Fournet Presentation box: Olivier Berthon Production logistics: David Lamy / MB&F Communication: MB&F: Charris Yadigaroglou, Virginie Meylan, Céline Cammalleri and Isabelle Boutantin Graphic Design: Alban Thomas and Gérald Moulière of GVA Studio Product Photography: Maarten van der Ende Display Architecture: Frédéric Legendre / Lekoni Portrait Photography: Régis Golay / Federal Webmasters: Stéphane Balet and Guillaume Schmitz of Sumo Interactive Texts: Ian Skellern / underthedial MB&F - The Genesis of a Concept Laboratory The projects that gave Maximilian Büsser the most pleasure and personal satisfaction during his fifteen years managing prestigious watch brands were those working with talented independent watchmakers. An idea for his own personal utopia emerged: that of creating a company dedicated solely to designing and crafting small series of radical concept watches in collaboration with talented professionals he both respected and enjoyed working with. The entrepreneur in Büsser brought the idea to reality. MB&F is not a watch brand, it is an artistic and micro-engineering concept laboratory in which collectives of independent horological professionals are assembled each year to design and craft radical Horological Machines. Respecting tradition without being shackled by it enables MB&F to act as a catalyst in fusing traditional, high-quality watchmaking with cutting-edge technology and avant-garde three-dimensional sculpture. MB&F's first timepiece, HM1 (Horological Machine No1) was delivered from 2007 and introduced the concept of three-dimensional architectural horology. This was followed by HM2 in 2008 and HM3 in 2009, which were both inspired by science fiction. The year 2010 heralded the HM4 Thunderbolt, considered by many to be MB&F's most audacious machine to date. MB&F is independent people creating for independent people. Biography– Maximilian Büsser Maximilian Büsser was born in Milan, Italy, before moving at an early age to Lausanne, Switzerland where he spent his youth. Growing up in a multi-cultural environment and family – his father was a Swiss diplomat who met his mother, an Indian national, in Mumbai – led Büsser to develop a cross-cultural, broad-based approach to life and to business. In July 2005, at the age of 38, Büsser created the world’s first horological concept brand: MB&F (Maximilian Büsser & Friends), in which he is now partnered with Serge Kriknoff. Büsser's dream with MB&F is to have his own brand dedicated to developing radical horological concepts by working in small, hyper-creative groups composed of people he enjoys working with. Entrepreneurship is Maximilian Büsser's forte. In 1998, when only 31, he was appointed Managing Director of Harry Winston Rare Timepieces in Geneva. During his seven years there Büsser developed the company into a fully-fledged and well-respected haute horlogerie brand by developing the strategy, products, marketing and worldwide distribution, whilst integrating design, R&D and manufacturing in house. The results were a 900% increase in turnover and the positioning of Harry Winston as one of the leaders in this very competitive segment. Maximilian Büsser's love for high-end horology was nurtured by his first employer, Jaeger-LeCoultre. During his seven years in the senior management team during the 1990s, JLC strongly increased its profile and multiplied its turnover by a factor of ten. Büsser's responsibilities at Jaeger-LeCoultre ranged from Product Management & Development to Sales & Marketing for Europe. Büsser graduated in 1991 with a Masters in Microtechnology Engineering from the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology, Lausanne. Press/Image MB&F
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