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03/04/14, 21:53 | |
1867 Was it fate? The oldest of eleven children in a very modest family, her calling for the fashion industry was clear from a very young age. As a teenager, she began an apprenticeship with a milliner on rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. When she was sixteen, she became apprentice milliner for Félix at 15 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, the current address for Lanvin Menswear. That was where Jeanne Lanvin designed her first hats… It was the success of her hat designs that led her to launch her own business. Little by little, she designed a wonderful wardrobe for Marguerite. Jeanne Lanvin had just invented children’s fashion. A bespoke high-waisted suit with an empire neckline, embroidered with olive branches and golden threads. Some sixty other suits would follow for immortals such as Paul Valéry, Georges Duhamel or André Maurois. They were the first fruits of Lanvin’s entry into the exclusive world of men’s bespoke tailoring. The unconditional love she had for her only child, Marguerite, bolstered her desire to design. She became her primary source of inspiration, her muse. A year earlier, Jeanne Lanvin and Marguerite had attended a costume ball. The scene was immortalised through a photograph of the dressmaker with her daughter, both dressed up and sporting hats. This went on to become the house’s emblem. The Young Ladies and Women’s departments were born. For her summer collection, Jeanne Lanvin created for the first time in her career a wedding dress with soft, romantic lines. She adopted the dress-shirt line for long, flowing creations for slim figures, delicately belted at the waist. The dress was subtly decorated: sleeves, a bordered skirt and a lace bodice. A white muslin veil, held in place by a crown of leaves, falls gracefully down the back. Her dynamism led her to incorporate fur into her designs with the arrival of rare fur skins to France and new fur fashion techniques. Three French fashion houses, including Paquin, Doucet, Caillot Sœurs and Worth represented the Haute Couture boom and its international influence. For Jeanne, the success of this exhibition allowed her to gain a stronger, more sustainable presence in the United States than her Parisian colleagues. Discover the video of the exhibition: Lanvin, “The Snatchers” at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs de Paris. Featuring simple yet imaginative outfits, the materials used were comfortable and perfect for sport, which was increasing in popularity. For this reason she introduced the ladies’ boyish style trouser suit. Nothing could escape the genius of Jeanne Lanvin. These were also happy days for Jeanne Lanvin, Vice President of the style section at the International Decorative Arts Exhibition. Responsible for representing dressmaking, Jeanne embodied the elegance and excellence of this French tradition. She employed the aesthetic of Lanvin décor and her designs under the huge glass roof of the Grand Palais. Maurice Lanvin, one of her nephews, assumed management of 15 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, Lanvin’s current address. Lanvin was then the only fashion house to offer both Men’s and Women’s collections. This year, 1926, Lanvin Lingerie was launched. Perfumer André Fraysse brought together Bulgarian rose, Grasse jasmine, honeysuckle and lily of the valley in a sensual original blend. The famous logo depicting Jeanne Lanvin and her daughter holding hands is displayed on the round bottle in black opaque glass created by Armand Rateau. It became the ultimate symbol of Jeanne’s love for her daughter. by #lanvin | |
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