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22:29Gustavo Lins presents the special collection for the desires in the World
Gustavo Lins’s 020 Collection deploys all the elements he has been developing for seve-ral seasons now:
the evening kimonos and draped dresses from the female wardrobe, jackets and coats with "saber”
seamed sleeves, spiraling torsions inspired by the mus-culature of the human body, alternations
of the structured and the fluid or even supe-rimposing both in a single garment, emphasized shoulders,
basque waists, corset belts, removable sleeves, etc. The materials used are extremely supple and comfortable,
merely light coverings of cashmere, mink and flannel suavely placed on the body.
They enable the spiraling twists and generously voluminous "ball” effects that have become
two of the brand’s most emblematic leitmotifs.
Part of the male wardrobe is worn by women (fur waistcoats, trousers, satin leather
jackets, wool or leather coats) to create a very sexy "oversize” fullness, with a high
waist marked by a simple men’s box-calf belt with the now-emblematic architect’s "T” on the buckle.
But this male side is always combined with feminine touches (printed scarf tops, blouses
constructed like immense neckties ending in a large supple knot at the back).
The jewelry accessories are now more dominant: after the large
Sèvres porcelain plaques worn as pectorals or armbands with the previous collection,
it is the turn of long pen-dants and imposing "white gold”-patinated silver cuffs studded with blocks of quartz or black tourmaline.
All these sparkling pieces were created specially for the collection by Maison Goossens in Paris.
Beneath men’s coats or long fur waistcoats, the evening dresses are generally off the
shoulder, maintained only by the neck, like long beach pareos. These are two simple
rectangles of silk with very simple leather braiding that nevertheless creates genuinely
complex volumes around the body. Some of the dresses are worn with transparent silk
leggings, with removable leather sleeves or long gloves embroidered with "torero” tri-mmings,
uncut precious stones, or sprinkled with delicate "baroque meringue” buttons
in white biscuit porcelain, specially created in the workshops at the Manufacture Na-tionale de Sèvres.
The overall effect is one of smooth, supple surfaces, but dotted with baroque fragments in a
"primitive flamboyant” spirit… A dazzling example of this is the wedding dress
(a "première” in the house’s collections), an extremely simple white dress
covered with a tulle veil and gloves embroidered with Brazilian turquoise nuggets.
Gustavo Lins himself designed a printed fabric in harmonies of vivid, deep colors
based on very liquid drip motifs. The theme of this fabric is an imaginary Arctic night
traversed by balls of fire. The result is an extraordinary, flamboyant abstract landscape
which, depending on its color variations, ranges from cold to hot and spans the season’s
entire color range: frosty whites and grays, sandy hues and golds for the first garments
in the show, followed by terracotta reds and burnt browns, and then a range of brilliant
blues, including the famous, intense "Sèvres blue” (used on its own or combined with
black and turquoise) for the particularly sumptuous evening wear… Very "haute couture”
yet absolutely, radically contemporary.
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Press/image Gustavo Lins
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